on the rise, confessions of a french baker

if i put bumperstickers on my car (which i don't, CB being the one and only exception) i would get one that said "i love gluten!"  my attempt at croissants gave me the utmost respect for bakers and even though fairly patient, i still didn't wait long enough for them to rise the third time.  a small, delightful bread book put out by peter mayle, with help from his baker ami gerard auzet, gives a lot of interesting history and tips on making the perfect loaf.  i learned, for example, that baguettes are freshest for only about 4-5 hours.  since baking starts at 4 am, this means getting your morning bread by 9 at the latest.  heartier breads last longer, so the french know to make a second trip for their evening meal.  one chain store in europe started marketing the "1 franc" baguette, a cheap version of the real thing, that very nearly started an uprising from local bakers (aux armes, les boulangers!).  now, for authenticity's sake, look for the word "banelle" to insure quality.  an old phrase says, "if you meet a baker in the street, monsieur, raise your hat.  he deserves respect."